Learning how to attach cedar siding isn't as scary as it looks, but you definitely want to avoid some common pitfalls before you start banging nails into those expensive planks. Cedar is a beautiful, durable wood, but it's also a bit temperamental if you don't treat it right. If you've ever seen an old house with black streaks running down the sides or warped boards popping off the wall, that's usually because someone rushed the installation or used the wrong hardware.
I'm going to walk you through the process of doing this the right way, from the prep work to the final nail. We're aiming for a professional finish that stays looking good for decades, not just a couple of seasons.
Get Your Tools and Materials Ready First
Before you even touch a piece of wood, you need the right gear. Cedar is naturally acidic, which sounds weird, but it's what makes it smell great and resist bugs. That same acidity, however, will eat through cheap nails in no time.
You absolutely must use stainless steel nails. If someone at the hardware store tells you "hot-dipped galvanized is just as good," take that with a grain of salt. While high-quality galvanized nails can work, the tannins in cedar react with metal. If the coating is even slightly thin, you'll get those ugly black "bleed" streaks. Stainless steel (Grade 304 or 316) is the only way to be 100% sure you won't ruin your siding's look.
As for tools, you'll need a good miter saw for clean cuts, a level (a long one is better), a chalk line, and a hammer or a pneumatic siding nailer. If you're using a nailer, make sure you can adjust the depth so you don't overdrive the nails and crush the wood fibers.
Prep the Wall for Success
You can't just slap cedar over your studs and call it a day. You need a solid base. Usually, this means OSB or plywood sheathing covered with a high-quality house wrap. This wrap acts as a moisture barrier, letting water vapor out but keeping liquid water away from your frame.
Here's a pro tip: consider a rainscreen system. This is basically just thin strips of wood (furring strips) nailed over the house wrap, which creates a small gap between the wall and the siding. This air gap allows the cedar to dry out from both sides. Cedar lasts way longer when it can breathe. If you live in a rainy climate, this step is pretty much a necessity.
Also, don't forget the flashing. Make sure you have metal flashing over windows, doors, and anywhere the siding meets a roofline. Water is sneaky, and it'll find its way behind your boards if you don't give it a clear path to run off.
Layout and Spacing Matter
One of the biggest mistakes people make when figuring out how to attach cedar siding is ignoring the "reveal." The reveal is the part of the board you actually see after everything is overlapped.
You want your siding rows to line up with the tops and bottoms of your windows and doors as much as possible. It looks a bit amateurish if you have a tiny sliver of wood right above a window frame. Take some time to measure the total height of the wall and divide it by the width of your boards (minus the overlap). You might need to adjust your overlap slightly—maybe by an eighth of an inch—to make the rows look even all the way up.
Use a chalk line to snap a level starting line around the bottom of the house. Don't just trust the foundation; foundations are rarely perfectly level. Your first row sets the tone for the entire project, so get it right.
The Step-by-Step Installation Process
Start at the bottom. You'll usually need a "starter strip"—a thin piece of wood or a rip of siding—to kick the bottom of the first board out at the correct angle. Once that's in place, you can start laying your first course.
Nailing it Down Properly
When you're nailing lap siding (the most common type), you generally want to blind nail whenever possible. This means you drive the nail through the top of the board so that the next board overlapping it covers the nail head. This protects the nail from the elements and looks much cleaner.
However, if your boards are very wide (over 6 inches), you might need to face nail them to prevent cupping. If you do face nail, try to keep the nails in a straight, vertical line. It looks more intentional and professional that way.
Here's the golden rule: don't nail through two layers of siding. Each board needs to be able to move independently as it expands and contracts with the weather. If you nail through the bottom of the top board and the top of the bottom board at the same time, the wood will eventually split or buckle.
Dealing with Joints
Unless you're siding a very small shed, you're going to have places where two boards meet end-to-end. This is called a butt joint. You want these joints to land directly over a stud.
Always use a bit of caulk or a small piece of flashing (like a "joint tin") behind these joints for extra protection. Also, make sure to stagger your joints. Don't have three rows in a row where the joints line up vertically; it's a structural and aesthetic nightmare. Space them out by at least two stud cavities.
Handling Corners and Windows
You have two main options for corners: mitered corners or corner boards. Mitered corners—where the boards are cut at a 45-degree angle to meet perfectly—look incredible but are incredibly difficult and time-consuming. They also tend to open up over time as the wood dries.
Most people go with corner boards. You install 1x4 or 1x6 trim pieces on the corners first, then butt the siding up against them. It's way faster, much more forgiving, and gives the house a nice framed look. Just make sure to leave a tiny gap (about 1/8 inch) between the siding end and the corner board, then fill that gap with a high-quality, paintable caulk.
For windows and doors, the process is similar. Install your trim first, then fit the siding to it. If you're doing it right, the siding should tuck nicely against the trim, creating a water-tight seal once caulked.
Finishing Touches and Maintenance
Once you've finished attaching the cedar siding, your job isn't quite done. Cedar is naturally rot-resistant, but it's not invincible. If you leave it raw, it'll eventually turn a silvery-gray color. Some people love that "beach house" look, but if you want to keep that warm, red-gold cedar glow, you need to seal it.
Ideally, you should seal or stain the boards before you put them on the wall. This is called "pre-staining," and it ensures the back of the board and the edges are protected. If you've already nailed it up, get a coat of sealer on it as soon as possible. Sunlight (UV rays) breaks down wood fibers surprisingly fast.
Check your siding once a year. Look for any boards that might have loosened or any caulk that's starting to crack. A little bit of maintenance every spring will keep you from having to redo the whole thing ten years down the line.
A Few Final Thoughts
Taking on a siding project is a big commitment, but there's something really satisfying about the smell of fresh-cut cedar and seeing a wall come together. Just remember: take your time with the layout, use stainless steel fasteners, and don't skip the moisture barrier.
If you focus on those three things, you'll end up with a house that's the envy of the neighborhood. Cedar is a premium material, so treat it with a bit of respect, and it'll take care of you for a long time. Now, go grab your level and get started!